Legendary makeup artist Kevyn Aucoin once said that the eyebrows are the most important facial feature and the only one you can change dramatically without a plastic surgeon. Which means before you pick up a pair of tweezers and start plucking, you want to consider your facial structure. There’s no one-size-fits-all brow, so knowing which shape will complement your features can make all the difference.
The two core principles of brows are that their shape should differ from the shape of your face to create an eye-pleasing balance, and don’t move your natural arch closer to or further out from your nose—doing so will throw off the proportions of your brows. All you want to tweak is how curved, angular, or straight your brows are, and our guide will point you to the most flattering shape for your face.
First, identify your face shape
Beauty pros have identified seven different face shapes. We refer to iconic makeup artist Bobbi Brown’s characteristics for each shape in the descriptions below.
It may not be obvious just by glancing in the mirror which face shape you fall under, so experts like Brown recommend grabbing a tape measure to measure the width of your forehead, cheekbones, and jawline and the length of your face. How these measurements all compare helps determine your face shape.
Now, find your best brow shape
1. Oval faces are a bit longer than they are wide. Usually, the forehead is the widest part of the face and the jawline and chin are round.
Famous oval faces: Beyoncé, Jennifer Lawrence, Jessica Alba
Softly angled brows work best on oval faces, which are quite symmetrical, so you don’t need to play up the shape or raise the arch to get a defined look. Let your natural arch be the guide and keep your brows nice and full, with the start and end of each brow falling at about the same horizontal level to mirror the symmetry of your features.
2. Long or oblong faces have a forehead, cheeks, and chin that are all about the same width, and a face that is longer than it is wide.
Famous long / oblong faces: Sarah Jessica Parker, Sandra Oh, Liv Tyler
A straighter brow shape with just a slight arch helps balance out a long face. Keep the arch soft and low—a high, pointy arch will make a long face seem even longer—and keep the tails long (or elongate them with brow makeup such as our Wonder Blading Brow Pomade In A Pencil) to help visually widen your face. Don’t be afraid to go full and feathery when styling your brows, as the thickness helps offset your face length.
3. Round faces have a forehead and jawline that are about the same width, and the cheekbones are the widest part of the face.
Famous round faces: Selena Gomez, Gigi Hadid, Chrissy Teigen
To contrast your soft, rounded features, brows with a sharp arch and a slightly tapered tail will create flattering angles that frame your face. Make sure the arch lines up with the outer edge of your eye’s iris—any further out from your nose can make your round face appear wider. And while full brows are always in style, don’t make yours too thick or else they can appear heavy on your type of face.
4. Square faces are as long as they are wide, with the forehead, cheeks, and jawline generally the same width and a strong, angular jawline.
Famous square faces: Zendaya, Margot Robbie, Katie Holmes
Your face is naturally angular, so your brows needn’t be. High, soft arches and a gentle, curved shape offer a nice balance to your sharp bone structure and give your brows a gentle lift. Stick with natural, subtle brow makeup, as going too bold can look intense on a square face.
5. Rectangle faces share the same characteristics as square faces except that the face is longer than it is wide.
Famous rectangle faces: Olivia Wilde, Angelina Jolie, Jennifer Garner
A long face with a strong jawline calls for gently curved brows to add softness. Extending the tails a little with pencil or powder will help your narrow face appear a bit wider, and apply your brow makeup a bit hazy and feathery—crisply defined brows are overkill with your sharp features.
6. Heart-shaped faces are wider in the forehead and cheeks with a delicate, narrow chin and often a pointed hairline.
Famous heart-shaped faces: Kerry Washington, Reese Witherspoon, Constance Wu
Thick brows with a rounded or low arch follow the curves of a heart-shaped face and help offset a longer chin. Brush up your brows for that extra fluffy finish, which helps your brow area seem a little less wide to bring everything into harmony.
7. Diamond faces are similar to heart-shaped faces except with a narrower forehead and high cheekbones.
Famous diamond faces: Halle Berry, Jennifer Lopez, Kate Hudson
Your face shape benefits from a softer, not-so-angular arch to contrast defined cheekbones and a pointed chin. Curved or rounded brows will help the widest area of your face appear a bit slimmer and really complement your facial structure.
Create your look
Once you know which brow shape works well with your face, try the pro-vetted eyebrow mapping technique to mark out where you’ll want to tweeze and help create symmetry between your brows. If you over-plucked in the past or have gaps of visible skin, try our Power’Full Lash & Brow Enhancing Serum to get your brows looking full and healthy again in as little as a month, or get an instant fix with our Wonder Blading Brow Kit, which creates long-lasting brow color that looks and feels completely natural.